What we call plaid was, and in some quarters still is, referred to as “tartan.” Believe it or not, it actually goes back at least 3000 years to “Cherchan Man,” a Caucasian of European origin, whose remains were found clothed in a tunic and tartan leggings in Northwestern China.
Tartan became part of the Scottish military uniform during the 18th century. Scottish settlers brought plaid to the new world. In 1850, Woolrich Wollen Mills came up with “buffalo plaid,” the famous red and black checkered pattern Lumberjacks and other outdoor professions adopted it as a work uniform and then it just became identified with outdoorsmen in general.
By the end of the 1940’s, plaid wasn’t just for outerwear. Pendleton started making a lighter weight version for leisurewear and not least, launched a women’s shirt in 1949. The Beach Boys made the lighter weight, short sleeve shirts cool with the kids in the early 60’. Around the same time, plaid started catching on with the country club set, especially on the green where plaid pants became all the rage among golfers.
Plaid was pretty mainstream by the 70’s but it was also co-opted by the British punks, who saw it as both an old symbol of rebellion against the monarchy and at the same time, part of a staid Scottish tradition. Vivienne Westwood picked up on this and turned punked out plaid into haut couture. Then, grunge took plaid to a whole new level in the 90’s, Mark Jacobs made it a cornerstone of his 1993 collection.
These days, plaid is associated with everything from preppy golf wear to high-end fashion created by Victoria Beckham. I have even found myself sporting a plaid getup or two. So really it’s not the pattern inasmuch as the way it is styled. And when I think about the roots dating some 3000 years back, I have to admit I am wowed over the staying power and roots of fashion.
